Your one-stop website for fly fishing the White River, the Norfork Tailwater, and Lake Taneycomo
Back to Basics – And Introduction to fly tying tools and techniques
“This page talks about everything that is needed to get started in fly tying so that you can catch trophy trout like experienced White River fly fishing guides. The information provided is designed to simplify the fly tying process for beginners to advanced fly tiers. There is too much secrecy in fly fishing and fly tying, so we have decided to share everything we know; from the simple tips we have picked up over the years, to the complex topic of choosing the most effective fly tying tools. Fly fishing on the White River and Norfork Tailwater in Arkansas along with Lake Taneycomo outside of Branson, Missouri, requires very specific fly patterns in order to be consistently productive. We hope that you will agree that Taneycomo Trout is one of the best fly tying resources in the country. It took a lot of work to put all of this fly fishing and fly tying information together, and our goal is to make life easier for fly anglers who fish, or are thinking about fishing the White River Basin trout fisheries in the Ozark Mountains.”
There are only so many different fly tying tools that a person can buy and I, for one, don’t think you need every little “gadget” to get the job done right. This page will go over what I think will cover almost every tying situation. It’s really all about what you like working with. What works for you during the trial-and-error process of learning fly tying will usually be what you stick with over the course of the long run.
What are the basics?
Basically, everything boils down to one concept in fly tying: getting comfortable with wrapping the thread around the shank of a hook. The more you do this task, the faster you will become at fly tying. If you tie a two step fly for the rest of your life, you will be just as fast as someone who is experienced with tying big, fancy flies with respect to how long it will take you to complete a given step. The difference in the amount of time spent involves getting used to the material you’re tying into the fly, but as far as speed goes; the better you get at thread control, the faster you will become. Thread control is a crucial aspect of fly tying. You must also get good at gauging how much tension you can apply to the bobbin when you tie in different materials because if the thread breaks, you are back to square one. Something to think about right away is making sure you place tying materials at a 45-degree angle on the side of the hook shank closest to you. This is one little tidbit of information that will go a long way in making you more proficient. Information like this is why I am here - to give you pointers that you will not often see in writing.
Keep checking back to this page because I will continue to add updated content before our first local fly tying class in November. The tools that I use will be covered below, so that will be covered before the class even starts.
My current fly-tying station: It's about function, not form as you can tell by my mess.
This is where I am at when I am not on the water
I’ll continue from what I was saying in the report about, what’s function and what is just for your own personal preference. And there’s nothing wrong with that at all. I used to think that way, but now I think more on the lines of function versus what is for show.
What I like in a fly tying desk more than anything is to have a big enough space for all my tools , materials, hardware, etc. so I do not have to ever get up to get anything. Another feature that is a must is to have a shelf that pulls out from underneath the desktop. So, it made sense for me to get a computer desk. I initially wanted an all glass desk, not wood, for one reason: to see through it, but I realized this was not as important as function and wood is superior in that regard. When I’m learning a pattern, the part that slides out for the keyboard is the place where I like to put the book or magazine I am referencing. It allows me to look down instead of having to look up all the time.
The area that slides out is functional for many reasons. When I’m not in the process of learning a pattern, I use that space to store my hooks and whatever else I am using when tying a pattern. The versatility of this extra space has become my number-one reason for preferring a computer desk over a “real” fly tying desk made for that purpose alone. I haven’t found a true fly tying desk that I like, anyway. They look good at first, but once you sit down and start tying, you will usually find some reason to not like it. Usually, it comes down to there not being enough room. I can’t emphasize it enough: the pull out feature of a computer desk is very useful. Plus, a computer desk costs a lot less than a specialized desk, which frees up extra cash for other things you might need like storage bins, trash cans, lamps, etc.
Another thing I would like to touch on is choosing a vice. If you think you will become really serious about tying, just come off the money and get the best vice the first time around. Dyna King fly tying vises are my favorite, by far. It doesn’t matter which one either - they are all good. If I had to make a recommendation, it would be to get the King Fisher for travel and the Barracuda for home use. I prefer the clamp models and then adding an extension arm that pulls the vise out to you – this avoids the situation where you end up high with your body and arms. If you are straining in the least, you will pay the price over time. Just remember that you must feel comfortable when tying. It’s just like casting: feeling relaxed is the key to both activities. Another little thing that I find very useful is the gallows tool. I use this for hanging my flash strands off of instead of for tying parachute dries, but when I need to tie some of them up, the tool is there for that, as well. It is the little things that make you forget about the looks of your tying area and just focus on its functionality.
You’ are probably asking yourself at this point: “Where does he put all the fly tying materials?" That is a great question worth addressing. The key is to only have what you need in your tying area as this helps your speed. If you notice the portable studio with the blue background in the picture; that is where I would put my materials when I’m not taking photos. Just start prepping everything you need for whatever pattern you’re tying before getting started. A little bit of space is all you need, and honestly, it will keep the mess down if you tend to leave stuff around the table. If I need extra room, I just take over the dining room table for a few days if the guys are coming over. But if I’m working on a fly order, I keep everything close by and in one place. When everything goes smoothly, I can usually tie anywhere from 400 to 600 flies in a day - if it’s a two or three-step pattern.
Speaking of function: I like to put my hooks is in the spot where you would put the computer tower on the desk if you were using it for computing. I also like this area to be open and easy to access -not enclosed by a door. The clear hook boxes that have three rows down and six across are my favorite. You can also get a magnet that fits perfectly in those slots if you buy the Tiemco 25-packs. This will help keep your hooks organized. If for some reason you shift the hook boxes around, it will keep them from moving to another section of hook slots. This all depends on how many hooks are on the magnet, but it can help. I have ten hook boxes in one spot which adds up to be quite a bit of hooks.
I hope this assists a few people who are getting serious about commercial or speed-tying and it should give those looking to get extra organized some good ideas. These concepts have helped me and made my life a little easier. This is why I wanted to share my set-up with you.
Tying Tools and what I would recommend.
Everyone is different with respect to their preferred tools. All I can say is this: here is what works for me on a day to day basis. I’ll explain why I use each tool and what they are used for. Another thing is: don’t worry about money (I know…easier said than done). Get the best tools available so you don’t have to worry about them falling apart. Spending a little more at first will save in the long run.
Bobbins by Wasatch Tools
If you are looking for custom bobbins, these are the ones to get. With ceramic tubes, you won't have to worry about thread breakage, so they are worth getting instead of the bobbins with metal tubes.
Rite Bobbins
These are great for adjusting thread tension when you really need to get down to cinching heavier types of threads. I use this brand mostly for tying deer hair patterns and big saltwater streamers.
Tiemco Curved Boobins
This is by far the best bobbin to tie with, especially with respect to small patterns. The curve really sits well in the palm of your hand and makes for a more relaxed feel. Notice the ceramic tubes – there is no reason to use anything else.
Tiemco Standard Bobbins
My second choice after the curved bobbins.
Matarelli Bobbins - Long Reach
I can't say enough about the quality of all Matarelli tools. I mention the long reach variety because this is the only one I like out of the three sizes available. They're smooth to tie with and the small tube makes it easy to get in tight places. They don't have a ceramic tube, but they don't need it as the thread does not break when using this brand of bobbin. Matarelli is known for making great tools with no flaws. Your thread will not break from metal shaving inside the tools from drilling like the cheap ones will. You heard it here first: DON'T BUY CHEAP BOBBINS, AND IF YOU DO, MAKE SURE THEY HAVE CERAMIC TUBES.
Matarelli Whip Finishers - Standard & Extended Reach
Again, these are the best whip finish tools around and the very first ones made by Frank himself, years ago. The extended variety is the best for tying saltwater flies.
Whip Finisher - Miracle Springo
The Springo is pretty cool. There are no real cool features except that the tension idea is very useful.
Anvil - Ulitmate Curved
These are great Scissors and the best available, in my opinion. They stay sharp for a long period of time. I like the curve when shaping wings on streamer patterns and for cutting deer hair heads to shape.
Anvil - Ultimate Straight
I like these for making straight cuts; whether it's with foam or synthetic materials.
Anvil - Midge Straight
Great scissors for tying small flies and the big finger holes make it comfortable when holding other items as you tie.
Anvil - Midge Curved
Again, these are awesome for making angle cuts for shaping materials. Also, this scissor is great for making nice, crisp cuts on yarn when tying egg patterns.
Pliers
Bending hooks to shape is a reason to keep a pair handy.
Tear Mender
Great for gluing together soft, tanned hide strips (rabbit, for example). This technique became popular when Scott Sanchez came out with a fly called "Double Bunny".
Gloss Coat
This is ONLY head-cement type of glue I would recommend when covering a thread head. It doesn't cinch into the thread - instead it creates more of a build-up, so it’s like epoxy in a way. It also makes for a nice, shiny head if you're a commercial tier who is evaluated by the looks of your patterns.
Zap-A-Gap
Great all-purpose glue that works for everything you may need it for.
Zap Gel
Perfect for gluing eyes. It doesn't run as much as Zap-A-Gap.
Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails
You will find that this product works well for a lot of fly-tying functions. I use it mostly to really secure hourglass-type eyes down on the hook shank. Also, you can coat a layer of this on thread base-type patterns to create a shiny bond. Example:
This product, in my opinion, is far and away the best wax to use for the touch-dub technique.
Revolving Hackle Pliers- Wasatch Tools
These are best utilized for tying parachute hackles on dry flies.
Dubbing Brush - Wasatch Tools
Great for combing out legs on nymphs or scuds.
Fur Rack - Wasatch Tools
I use this product when combing out the under fur of snowshoe rabbit material.
Dubbing Brush - Midge - Wasatch Tools
This is used as a teaser that helps when trying to tie more realistic looking flies.
Dubbing Hook - Wasatch Tools
This comes in handy when you're trying to control how many turns you make in order to get the correct look without the fly appearing “too buggy”.
Hair Stacker, Medium - Wasatch Tools
Hair doesn't stick to the sides of this stacker. I use this product for medium size hair, like body hair, when tying in collars.
Hair Stacker, Large - Wasatch Tools
Great for belly hair or if you're trying to stack big hair ( bucktail ) for wings.
Hackle Pliers, Short & Long Nose - Starter Tools
These are the very best pliers in the world. The rubber on the ends keeps the material from remaining trapped. The material won't come out of these which can be an issue with other types of pliers.
Push Button Stacker & Griffin Hair Packer
Two different types to choose from - I like them both.
Double Sided Razor Blades
You will need these if you plan on shaping deer hair.
Bodkin & Dubbing Teaser - Griffin Tools
I like these two tools from griffin the most. The bodkin is used for messing with epoxy. The teaser is great for picking out dubbing.
Anvil Accu-Tip Quick Snip
Great for getting close to hides when making "that tricky cut”. Example: works well for deer hair, wool, bucktail, etc.
Razor Knife
Whip Finish - Starter Tools
Deer Hair Combs
Half Hitch Tools ( set of three ) - Edgin & Umpqua Tools
Gun Cleaning Brush
I like this multi-use product for combing synthetic materials like craft fur, polar fiber, e.p. fiber and anything that is used for wing material on baitfish patterns.
Pre-made Dubbing Brush - Velcro
Neddlenose Pliers with Spring - Starter Tools
Kershaw Scissors - Skeeter 1, standard & 2, serrated
Dog Brush
Great for combing out under hair on wool, deer hair, or any other material that has bulk that isn't necessary for tying into a pattern.
Dubbing Whirler by Edgin Tools
Really, this is the only one I like out of all the dubbing spinning-type tools on the market. The weight being on the bottom is important for getting the maximum spin in order to create that "buggy" look. I also like it for spinning in synthetic materials, as well.
The above mentioned products are what I would recommend if you are out looking for tools. I’m sure I missed a few, but these are what I use on a daily basis. If you notice, I use a lot of bobbins, but who wants to change out threads all the time? Keep buying bobbins when you have extra cash – you can never have too many and you will find it beneficial to you in the long run. If you are attending one of my classes, I do furnish materials for the patterns we are tying, but if you’re getting into tying, I would bring your tools and “ect.” to class just to make it easier. If you need to know where to get any of these tools, send me an email and I can point you in the right direction.
